How to fix starter on 1984 honda v30 magna
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There's a screw in the side of each fuel bowl cover. Catches gas and works great to keep parts from getting away from you. When working on the carb rack, I set it in a cheap foil baking sheet from the grocery store.
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Discharge should be at a rate of like 600cc's minute or something on that order.īy spark I mean is there a strong spark at the plug (seen when removed from the head and with the treaded body grounded hard against a good engine ground surface, with the wire on it).If it fires up at all, even running for a few seconds, it IS sparking, but maybe with some weakness so that opening the throttle even a little drowns it out.Ĭheck the fuel pump, choke cable motion to make sure it's closing properly and try draining the float bowls in case some nastyness is in there.īasically, the engine requires 3 elements to sustain operation:Īll the other parts of the powerplant exist to sustain these 3 conditions.valve train, ignition units, piston rings, carbs etc. That may be the problem.Ĭheck for fuel flow by disconnecting the outlet line from the pump and turning on the key (with a container under the line). If it's malfunctioning the carbs may not be getting enuff fuel, then accumulating some just by siphon action after it sits. It's a black cylindrical thing shock-mounted to the frame. This tool makes it easy to put the bolt back on.The V65 has an electrical fuel pump under the seat. You insert this from the top on some ratchet extensions, hold the cartridge, then undo the bolt with an allen. YOu can typically fashion it from bolts or a tube. This tool varies from fork to fork, but usually they have a picture of it in the manual. If you don't have one, you can use a tool to hold the cartridge (i know you don't have a cartridge, but the equivalent) from spinning. Just make sure you have the little retainer clip outįor that bolt on the bottom, you can use an impact. To pull the tubes apart, it helps to have one inside a vice. Usually you can slide it on on the end that's inside the fork, which is clean and rust-free. Don't run the seal over any rust, either. Careful about the sharp end of the tube, you can use some tape to make sure you don't scratch the seal. Cover the tube in fork oil to make sure it slides on right. Tap on it with a punch or even screwdriver. So it's easy to bleed off the air.ītw, you can use the old seal to drive in the new one. Some fancier ones have an air nipple like on the tire and you use a tire pump to give it a few psi. You can control the damping some by raising and lowering the oil level, thus changing the volume of air. On some bikes of that era they used the air-assisted term to mean there's air above the oil. ( and I have done thousands of fork seals) I have never had an oem installed seal leak, and when customers bring me 'aftermarket" ones, its about 70/30.
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Lastly- use oem seals, most of the aftermarket ones are a crap shoot on whether they will last or not.
#HOW TO FIX STARTER ON 1984 HONDA V30 MAGNA INSTALL#
Loosen the upper triple clamp bolts (the ones that pinch the top of the fork tubes) remove the air line and the fork caps, install the proper amount of fork oil, re-install the caps and the air lines-use 15 or 20W oil, and dont run any "added" air pressure, it will build up to about 5 psi just by riding it, and be upto about 10psi when you are riding it for longer periods of time and when its hot (expansion) and that is more than enough pressure ( if your suspension is way too soft, then get better springs, or add an inch or two of spacers to preload them - adding air pressure is only asking for the seals to leak again.) Install the new seal, slide the new dust seal up the inner fork leg and the snap ring, reinstall the lower tube onto the inner tube, install the lower 6 or 8mm bolt to hold the inner and upper together (a little grease on the washer and the threads help) Pry out the oil seal (make sure to not damage the tube) if you didnt use the 'slam" method aboveĬlean up the entire assembly, put some grease in the new oil seal (where the springs are holding the lip, packed full- this will keep the spring in place during assembly) and a little around the outer edge of the seal (so it slides in easier) Remove the dust seal, and the snap ring that is under it, you should then be able to seperate the upper and lower fork tubes (you may need to "slam" the lower down a couple times to remove the seal, but usually those old tubes will just slide around the bushing and seal) The 6mm or 8mm headed allen bolt on the bottom of the fork tube needs to be removed, use an air gun and the proper "good" allen head (if you strip it, you will be drilling) all the oil will drain out through that hole, and it allows you to remove the lower fork leg from the upper Take off the wheel, fender and brake calipers On that bike, you dont need to remove the fork tubes !! ( Luckily for you, you have one of the simplest bikes to do seals on)